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Old 29-01-2008, 10:19 PM   #1
KW XRT
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Default How to get 60ft faster with auto

Auto XR6 T

Got the tune box in and the dyno says 217 RWKW on the 8 so the 10 should be more.Ran the 10 and late in the day ran the 8 and it was 2 tenths slower than the 10.

Ambiant 37 track 50 {guess

5th and last pass at 17 10 2nd pass 1510 1/8th 144.233
1/8th 9.623
Best et 14.528 1/4 14.802
1/8th 9.465 Mph 91/147
60 ft 2.332
MPH 96 .360 155

Like the MPH but 60ft is slow any idea's car was stalled to 1800 and floored {didn't want to break it.


cheers

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Old 29-01-2008, 11:11 PM   #2
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37deg amiant won't help at all, even though 96mph seems SLOW for 217rwkw.

was it wheelspining off the line? If not, stall it up some more. A mate was seeing 2.10's from stock BA Xr6T's at AIR before it was shut down (stock 18" dunlops @ 38psi).
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Old 30-01-2008, 01:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkinshaw
37deg amiant won't help at all, even though 96mph seems SLOW for 217rwkw.

was it wheelspining off the line? If not, stall it up some more. A mate was seeing 2.10's from stock BA Xr6T's at AIR before it was shut down (stock 18" dunlops @ 38psi).
No wheel spin that I can detect dropped the tyres down to 29 lbs.I agree seems slow doesn't it.Especially as the 10 feels stronger I recon at least 10 RWKW.

The car pulls really hard once over 3 k and is actually catching cars in 13sec bracket but gives away too much of a head start.

I feel as though there is no boost the guage reads "0" when stalled and can't work out how to get it on to boost for the take off.It was the first time playing though.

Took me 4 runs to beat my old sixpack {E38 made me laugh a bit.

cheers for the time welshy
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Old 02-02-2008, 02:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KW XRT
No wheel spin that I can detect dropped the tyres down to 29 lbs.I agree seems slow doesn't it.Especially as the 10 feels stronger I recon at least 10 RWKW.

The car pulls really hard once over 3 k and is actually catching cars in 13sec bracket but gives away too much of a head start.

I feel as though there is no boost the guage reads "0" when stalled and can't work out how to get it on to boost for the take off.It was the first time playing though.

Took me 4 runs to beat my old sixpack {E38 made me laugh a bit.

cheers for the time welshy
Hi mate.

Is your car a BA or BF? (Four speed or ZF?)

Do you have custom tunes or just the generics? It sounds like you have a generic tune with nothing done to remove torque tags... If so, get a custom tune.

What was the humidity like when you had the runs? Your times may not reflect how quick it is if the conditions weren't favourable... but as you say, if others had way better 60' times then yes, something ain't right.

Also, don't deflate your tyres if you're not getting wheelspin (at the desired stall rpm), pump them up instead.
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Old 02-02-2008, 12:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falc'man
Hi mate.
Do you have custom tunes or just the generics? It sounds like you have a generic tune with nothing done to remove torque tags... If so, get a custom tune.
Like Falc'man has mentioned custom tune with torque management adjusted u can spool the turbo to more boost off the line without the throttle closing, this should improve your 60ft
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Old 04-02-2008, 12:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falc'man
Hi mate.

Is your car a BA or BF? (Four speed or ZF?)

Do you have custom tunes or just the generics? It sounds like you have a generic tune with nothing done to remove torque tags... If so, get a custom tune.

What was the humidity like when you had the runs? Your times may not reflect how quick it is if the conditions weren't favourable... but as you say, if others had way better 60' times then yes, something ain't right.

Also, don't deflate your tyres if you're not getting wheelspin (at the desired stall rpm), pump them up instead.
Thanks for the responses guys.

Car is 2004 BA with 4 speed auto.Not sure on humidity but it was bloody hot.

Generic tune.Car seems slow out the whole with no chance of wheel spin.I put BF phoon plugs in and regapped them to .8 mill.Car ran well and apart from hunting after start up it ran fine.Like I said stalled it to about 1800 didn't feel as anymore was warranted.Car was dyno'd with 217 RWKW from the 8LB.

Thought of a high stall B/Inlaw recons he can get 2500 easy for me but would want it out after so that's why I've baulked at it.

The third or fourth run was a bye and so I was able to hear this huge 2nd gear wheel spin and a chirp in 3rd.For those that arn't aware the tune box ups line pressure to firm up the shifts.Anything above 3000 the car realy pulls hard.Hopes of smacking my mates 265 ute {13.5 goooooone : untill I get some more HP.Lookes like a custom tune comming up.

I was trying to chyange at bit over 5k but thought it better change where maximum torque is but I didn't get torque figures from the dyno.What's your thoughts.


By the numbers

Best 60 FT 2.296

Best 1/8 9.465 fastes 1/8 89.641 MPH 144 KPH {faster than a 12.3 torana

Best 14.518

Best MPH 96.774/ KPH_155.710


cheers
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Last edited by KW XRT; 04-02-2008 at 12:40 AM.
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Old 04-02-2008, 06:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KW XRT
By the numbers

Best 60 FT 2.296

Best 1/8 9.465 fastes 1/8 89.641 MPH 144 KPH {faster than a 12.3 torana

Best 14.518

Best MPH 96.774/ KPH_155.710


cheers
Something is not right here, 89mph to half track and 96mph at the finish doest not add up at all, thats sort of mph at the 1/8 mark you would need alot more than 217rwkw and/or well into the 1.7-1.6 60ft's to achieve 89mph (the lower your 60ft your half track mph will go up).
With a time of 9.4 to half track and a 2.3 60ft your mph should around 77-78mph.
Also mate you should be able to achieve a 2.1 60ft with a std stall (and take into account every .1 off your 60ft take .2 off at the finish) I would be trying to achieve that before you go to a high stall as it will get harder with the high stall, be more agressive off the line and you will have to learn how to drive your car all over again. If you just jump ahead without learning the basics you will find it very difficult down the line and not understand why things are happening.
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Old 30-01-2008, 01:18 PM   #8
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double up lol
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Old 02-02-2008, 11:45 AM   #9
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I'd spool it up at top of tree with handbrake on and left foot on brakes pedal...
Control by throttle... Time spools turbo....
Release hand brake etc when second from bottom light goes out....
You auto guy have it soooo easy !!!!
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Old 02-02-2008, 01:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KW XRT
Auto XR6 T

Got the tune box in and the dyno says 217 RWKW on the 8 so the 10 should be more.Ran the 10 and late in the day ran the 8 and it was 2 tenths slower than the 10.

Ambiant 37 track 50 {guess

5th and last pass at 17 10 2nd pass 1510 1/8th 144.233
1/8th 9.623
Best et 14.528 1/4 14.802
1/8th 9.465 Mph 91/147
60 ft 2.332
MPH 96 .360 155

Like the MPH but 60ft is slow any idea's car was stalled to 1800 and floored {didn't want to break it.


cheers
96 mph means that on those runs the car developed around 150 to 160 rwkws..It does not indicate 217 killowatts.14.5 is not a bad time considering the 60 footer.I thinjk you should invest in a torque converter with an extra 500 rpm stall speed than standard and watch the times tumble.
Ther other problem is the tune.It obviously has not provided you with the torque down low to get it moving much faster. I would front the tuner and ask the question why? Tuners are only human too.
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Old 04-02-2008, 04:32 PM   #11
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Yes, you definitely need a custom tune mate if you want that better take off. From there, you can decide if you should get a stall convertor. And yes, use the torque of the motor, no need to use high rpm if tuner has tuned it to make good midrange.
Cheers.
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:13 PM   #12
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Yea Don't know what happened with those times.That run felt fast {89 MPH 1/8 mile the car went and felt fast {overcast so bolted for the start line good drive 1st and second but car went from 2nd to 4th for some stupid reason {must have lifted foot or double clicked the sports shift but the 1/4 mile felt way faster than 14.8

cheers
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:42 PM   #13
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I decided to read the owners manual from the T once and it indicated that if the engine oil temp got too high then torque would be reduced untill temp drops below a determined level.

Maybe get a oil cooler like the Typhoon.
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:56 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xwgasaxe
I decided to read the owners manual from the T once and it indicated that if the engine oil temp got too high then torque would be reduced untill temp drops below a determined level.

Maybe get a oil cooler like the Typhoon.
Known about this for some time and it surfaced on the dyno but only after the 3rd run,car now runs nulon full synthetic and temp seems even cooler than before {which also could pose a problem lol.Car didn't seem to be getting hot and was left to cool after every run.

66 coupe

with a custom shift kit you can.... also try removing the brake fuse, that way the ecu doesnt know your on the brakes.

Nice thought there 66 you might be onto something as there does seem to be a computer protection thing.Couple of seconds out it goes like a scolded cat.Shame there wasn't more time late to experiment but I ran out of opposition.Few commadores got put on the trailer early.

cheers
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Old 08-02-2008, 11:21 AM   #15
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What does the car run like in the auto shift mode? Might feel slower but could be faster? factory models I heard were faster when left in auto.

Can you select 2nd gear while stationary @WOT??? Being able to load up in high gear will spool turbo much easier, and no creeping.
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Old 08-02-2008, 12:13 PM   #16
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with a custom shift kit you can.... also try removing the brake fuse, that way the ecu doesnt know your on the brakes
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