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Drag Racing Discuss Drag Racing here be it dirt or tarmac. Sponsored by Sydney Dragway. |
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04-09-2006, 06:57 PM | #31 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 138
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Quote: i dont know why people would rather go heathcote than caulder park.
Sure its good fun at heatchcote, but if your serious about your times, comparing the 2, heathcote has a much higher altitude (meaning less oxygen) and also its in the day which is warmer than night(caulder) Times would vary alot with the 2 different tracks. Fingers crossed weathers good this friday, i dont want to miss out again. and for quick cars it's easier to get traction when you have more heat in the track, unlike calder, it's always very cold nights
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11.1@127.41mph 360rwkw (unopened) built bottom end with H-beam rods 400+ rwkw c9 and nos. much much much more to come soon |
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04-09-2006, 08:28 PM | #32 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 727
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Above post just reminded me. Tracks like Calder, Willowbank anywhere cold; even Townsville and Mackay suffer from the winter.
At night, especially when dew is about the track cools to the point where grip is very hard to get. I've never tried it with street tyres of any sort but it's I reckon it's worth putting a few pounds in the rears. It lessons the size of the contact patch but when you do a burnout the tyre will be hotter than at a lower pressure. I used that (so did everyone else) with good results in kart racing. In a kart you can feel everything that's going on around you and tyre changes by 1/2 - 1 psi in normal warm conditions make a difference. In cold air/track as well as other changes I used to put an extra 10 - 15 in the fronts (they need good grip to turn in). It used to make a big difference on the 1st lap; after about 5 laps they were up to temp whether you pumped them up or not. |
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04-09-2006, 09:49 PM | #33 | ||
Weezland
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sydney,workshop mod
Posts: 7,216
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I dont like racing in winter at night anymore because of dew.
About 2 months ago at WSID the dew was so bad, I almost hit the wall shifting into 4th,slicks can be very hairy if there is any moisture on the track.. |
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04-09-2006, 10:17 PM | #34 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,464
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I do not mean to stir anything up but, is there alot of people who think what their shyte don't stink at the drags?
i mean are there people there that would make newbies like myself feel unwelcome to these events, like many other sporting events or is everyone willing to give the new guy a few tips, i hope the latter Thanks Adam
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The Old: 1993 ED Fairmont 1994 ED Futura Classic Manual, 2004 BA MkII XR6 Turbo 2009 G6E Turbo (277.2rwkw @ Tuned at Bullet Performance Racing) 2007 Audi S5 4.2L V8 manual (Supersprint exhaust, MMI 3G+ retrofit) The New: 2015 SZ MkII Territory Titanium Petrol RWD (With Sync 3 Upgrade) Other Road Toys Silver Surfer 2014 S-Works Roubaix SL4 road bike with Roval Rapide CLX 40 wheelset The Adventurer! 2023 TREK Domane SL 7 AXS Gen 4 |
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04-09-2006, 11:18 PM | #35 | |||
Solution Was Boost 4?, 6 & 8
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 23,624
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Quote:
come and have a chat with us, At our meets everyone is the same.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
AUTOTECH TUNED EDELEBROCK CHARGED 2017 GT Mustang Plenty of RWKW |
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05-09-2006, 12:20 AM | #36 | |||
B-Series Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Victoria
Posts: 3,658
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Quote:
Sure there may be some that will be elitist, but if you find a sour grape, you don't throw away the whole bunch. As long as someone doesn't start a discussion about stripes or foglights, it will be a fantastic day. LOL I am SO looking forward to it.
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BF MKII XR6 Turbo 2007 (Flare) ZF Auto 380rwkw - 11.68 @ 120.94mph 60ft=1.97 Custom Tune, Exhaust. injectors.1.2K Plazmaman 1.2K Plenum kit Now with bigger turbo and 426rwkw. Last edited by Doogstar; 05-09-2006 at 12:37 AM. |
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05-09-2006, 09:39 AM | #37 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,503
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Think you will find at just about any drag meet most people only too happy to help out, we all start from the same place and have to learn somehow
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successfull trades with davway,ozziechief,Damon, Big Trev, Howey, BJ , Niko, Davocol,klawsterfobik and XCwillo |
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05-09-2006, 09:47 AM | #38 | ||
Tribal Elder
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Yarrambat
Posts: 2,278
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The admin. team should have a start line discussion prior to the beginning of the meet on the day for the newbies this weekend. How bout it admins?
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05-09-2006, 10:02 PM | #39 | |||
Solution Was Boost 4?, 6 & 8
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 23,624
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Quote:
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
AUTOTECH TUNED EDELEBROCK CHARGED 2017 GT Mustang Plenty of RWKW |
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05-09-2006, 10:21 PM | #40 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,464
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thanks for all the support guys, look foward to hitting the stretch
Adam
__________________
The Old: 1993 ED Fairmont 1994 ED Futura Classic Manual, 2004 BA MkII XR6 Turbo 2009 G6E Turbo (277.2rwkw @ Tuned at Bullet Performance Racing) 2007 Audi S5 4.2L V8 manual (Supersprint exhaust, MMI 3G+ retrofit) The New: 2015 SZ MkII Territory Titanium Petrol RWD (With Sync 3 Upgrade) Other Road Toys Silver Surfer 2014 S-Works Roubaix SL4 road bike with Roval Rapide CLX 40 wheelset The Adventurer! 2023 TREK Domane SL 7 AXS Gen 4 |
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05-09-2006, 11:21 PM | #41 | ||
B-Series Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Victoria
Posts: 3,658
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I found this informative link on the Heathcote website, lots of good info for newbies like myself.
http://www.heathcoteraceway.com.au/ttbasics.htm
__________________
BF MKII XR6 Turbo 2007 (Flare) ZF Auto 380rwkw - 11.68 @ 120.94mph 60ft=1.97 Custom Tune, Exhaust. injectors.1.2K Plazmaman 1.2K Plenum kit Now with bigger turbo and 426rwkw. |
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27-09-2006, 09:58 PM | #42 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,464
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what sort of revs should i be doing when changing gears?
I have figured that 1st hits 60ks @5000, 2nd 100ks@5000 not sure about the rest In order to get the best from my car at what rpm should i be changing at? to get the most torque or the most power? Thanks Adam
__________________
The Old: 1993 ED Fairmont 1994 ED Futura Classic Manual, 2004 BA MkII XR6 Turbo 2009 G6E Turbo (277.2rwkw @ Tuned at Bullet Performance Racing) 2007 Audi S5 4.2L V8 manual (Supersprint exhaust, MMI 3G+ retrofit) The New: 2015 SZ MkII Territory Titanium Petrol RWD (With Sync 3 Upgrade) Other Road Toys Silver Surfer 2014 S-Works Roubaix SL4 road bike with Roval Rapide CLX 40 wheelset The Adventurer! 2023 TREK Domane SL 7 AXS Gen 4 |
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28-09-2006, 05:56 AM | #43 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 727
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Quote:
People can guide you but the best way is for you to try different shift points yourself but make sure you change NOTHING else when you are doing that. As in; don't put new jets in carb and then try different shift points. Take notes of what you do and times, speeds, time of day, etc. You'll never remember what you did after half a dozen runs. The speed you get from each gear doesn't matter a great deal. What's more important is how the car accelerates into the next gear. If you change 1st-2nd at say 5000 rpm and it pulls hard into the next gear; try say 4800 (or 5200, doesn't matter) and see what happens. Not only times/speed but how it feels as well. If that gives worse times go the opposite direction. There's a lot to be gained from driving; more than people realise. A driver can learn heaps by practice and experimentation as well as paying attention to what the car tells him/her. |
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28-09-2006, 10:56 AM | #44 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,464
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I've go an ED futura I6 5 speed, the engine has had no work done to it, stock diff, performance mods include: extractors and 2.5 exhaust, xh snorkal, and thermo's. i'm guessing my car is running at 170kw (not sure what rkw) as i can keep up with a modded EBs1 V8 (165kw stock i think).
I have noticed a shift between 4500 and 4800 seems to work well and i can feel the car acceleration however when i shift 4800+ i notice that i can reach a desired speed quicker but the (force i guess you would call it) does not seem to be there after 4800, just reving it guts off. should i keep shifting at 4500-4800 feeling the acceleration of my car through, well the first three gears anyway! i haven't tried what 3rd red lines at! or shifting at 5000 knowing that i can get a better up and go for the next gear. What get you the quicker 1/4 mile acceleration or speed? Also what would be reccommended when leaving the start line as i don't want to leave my diiff and/or clutch left on the strip! I only have a stock clutch if that makes any difference......what revs should i be doing before i drop the clutch, or shouldn't i be doing that. any help would be great Thanks Adam
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The Old: 1993 ED Fairmont 1994 ED Futura Classic Manual, 2004 BA MkII XR6 Turbo 2009 G6E Turbo (277.2rwkw @ Tuned at Bullet Performance Racing) 2007 Audi S5 4.2L V8 manual (Supersprint exhaust, MMI 3G+ retrofit) The New: 2015 SZ MkII Territory Titanium Petrol RWD (With Sync 3 Upgrade) Other Road Toys Silver Surfer 2014 S-Works Roubaix SL4 road bike with Roval Rapide CLX 40 wheelset The Adventurer! 2023 TREK Domane SL 7 AXS Gen 4 |
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28-09-2006, 04:34 PM | #45 | ||
Ute Forum Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melb
Posts: 7,227
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As per above, try a few different things. You have thought about when the engine stops making power at the top end, what about after the gear change, you don't want to have too few revs then if you shift too early. As I say try a few different ways and see what works best.
Launching is a bit of a catch-22, if you are harder on your clutch you can launch harder (provided there is enough grip), but obviously you don't want to destroy the clutch. Dumping the clutch is not too bad, you will get a bit of wheelspin so there is your slip. Don't use too many rpm or it will be a lot of wheelspin and slow. I would say start at 2000rpm, let the clutch out quick while feeding in the accelerator. Then try 200rpm higher, etc. To assess how well it works, look at the 60 foot times. I found that 3000rpm with a little bit of clutch slip got my best 60 foot time, I felt there was more to come but I didn't want to be rougher on the clutch. Most important is concentrate on your technique and how the car feels. Eg at social meets like Forums ones, if there is a V8 with no exhaust next to you, let him go then go yourself when you can hear your own car. |
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30-09-2006, 07:16 AM | #46 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 727
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The launch is basically as outback ute says.
A little bit of wheelspin can help a low powered car. (That's not a shot at you or your car by the way). With no wheelspin a heavy car (falcon) and not a lot of torque will pull the engine too far under it's torque "band" and it can take the whole dragstrip to get it back again. Usually overrevving will slow car down. Try shifting at a lower rev such as 4200; then see how it feels and what times it runs. The mph is important but et wins races. If it goes slower then work harder at narrowing the shift points to about 100 rpm. Instead of 4500 - 4800, work at 4500-4600 or 4600-4700. Again, if it is slower at 4200 approx keep lifting the rpm up until you get the best time. |
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